Adjusting and readjusting

Life is becoming normal. I am continuing with interviews, checking out new schools and looking around for apartments. I have been exploring the city a little more by foot, which is good for my mental map of Phnom Penh. I have also been spending a lot more time with my new Khmer friends, which has been excellent. Two nights ago I went out dancing with a big group and it was really fun and motivating for me to practice my Khmer. The DJ was crazy, everything had this club beat and there were lasers and strobe lights to boot.

Yesterday was a much more sobering day, as I visited the S-21 museum, which stands for Security 21. It used to be a school, but in the late 1970's the Khmer Rouge combatants took it over and used it as a place of torture and prison. They hadn't really done much to the place to change it to the museum/memorial that it is now, and there were blood stains on the floor and the buckets and containers that the prisoners used for their waste still in the cells. There were a lot of photos of the prisoners and that was really heavy for me to see their faces--some bruised and battered, some full of hatred, and some that were smiling. There were also photos of the Khmer Rouge members and this was even more heart-wrenching as some of the boys were about 12 years old. I hired a tour guide, and this woman was telling me how she lost her brother, sister, and father during Pot Pol's reign of terror, and she just managed to survive and escape to Vietnam with her mother, both of them half-starved. The city of Phnom Penh, usually bustling and full of 1million residents became a ghost town as everyone was shipped out to different prison locations. It seems that everyone has lost someone from the Khmer Rouge--and only now is just one of the leaders on trial. Apparently there are a lot of ex-Khmer Rouge that are still holding office in the government...terrifying. It is such a tragic and recent history and it was important for me to see and learn, but it was a pretty dark day.

It's a nice day for a Khmer wedding

So I am now an offical graduate of the LanguageCorps Program and I have my TESOL (teaching English to students of other languages) Certificate! This week was a bit hectic, filled with interviews, teaching, teaching observation, and paperwork. I had the opportunity to go out to school and teach elementary age students. The program is for children who live in the provinces of Cambodia and they come into Phnom Penh Monday-Friday to have schooling, and then return to their home to work the fields on the weekends. Some of the students are orphans from poorer provinces so they stay at the organization's main building. I loved the kids that I worked with--they were so self-motivated to learn. After a few more scheduled lessons we went outside to play games like follow the leader and simon says. "Teacher, teacher play game!" was a common request the next day. Whatever job I get, I hope to volunteer some time during the week or on the weekends.

Another noteworthy experience I had was attending a Khmer wedding. Dara, a guy who works for LanguageCorps (who picked me up from the airport my first day) invited a few of us to go to his sister's wedding. I'm not sure that I knew what to expect...but I don't think anything would have prepared me for the following events. Right from the street, I realized I was vastly underdressed in my brown cotton dress and braided hair. The women had a rule of thumb; the more sparkles, lace, sequins, beading, and color, the better. Some of the hairstyles might very well be a part of the reason the ozone layer is depleted...way too much hairspray! I walk in to many bows and welcoming words and find our table. I am one of two white females, and one of 6 or 7 non-Khmer people out of the whole crowd...well over 100 in total. The food was unbelievable. Course after course of delicious meats, fish, duck, prawns..it just didn't end! And the people were certainly celebrating, constantly refilling my glass with Johnnie Walker Red Label and cheersing me. As for entertainment...right after the initial singer and band, a troupe of ladyboys made their debut lip synching to electronically-remastered hits. Grandmothers and small children alike cheered and ran up to get a good spot for enjoying the show (booty shaking). I was toward the back snapping photos until a woman grabbed me by the arm and pushed our way through the crowd so I could get a premium spot. Mothers were nudging their children my direction so they could practice their English. Younger and older ladies pulled me into their photos, calling me beautiful...and I was painfully aware of my dusty moccasins next to their fancy high heels. When the dancing began I was really excited and grateful to receive help and instructions with hand motions and foot steps when the song called for it. I knew a few of the guests through LanguageCorps or tuk-tuk drivers, or just friends who hang around in those circles. I wish wish wish I could post some pictures for you, the minute I free up space on my laptop, you will be privy to these goings-on.

An apartment and job are on the horizon, bringing a more stable lifestyle than what I've been used to these past few weeks. I'm looking foward to having that sense of security. I'll let you know when I have an address, although I don't think post here is too reliable. I do have a phone that you can reach me, probably with the use of a phone card for you, and free for me. The number would be 011- 855- 077-238556 for you Americans over there. By the way, I've heard about the crazy blizzards and snowstorms on the east coast...it feels weird to sweat through layers of clothing as thats all happening for you.

Bangkok and Back again...(Cambodia for good)

Hey friends & family,

I have a few updates for you! This Friday Susan and I visited Bangkok. We met up with her friend Molly who completed the TESOL course a few months ago. Bangkok was an experience. My first impression was that it was an actual city-by my definition: real roads, highways, traffic, taxicabs, highrise buildings, skyscrapers, and people...tons and tons of people. Walking around the city, we had to walk in the streets because there were too many people to fit all on the sidewalk. They had built a sky train above the city which gave me a chance to see the city from a different perspective. We took meter taxis of all colors-mainly bright pink, green, yellow. At night the city lights up with bars, clubs, restaurants, and vendors. The food in Bangkok was infinitely better than in Cambodia, and I tried a lot more street food because I felt it was prepared in more sanitary conditions. Salted nuts, fried chicken and sticky rice, unusual fruits, breaded sausage, and my personal favorite: sweet corn on the cob. We went to the Grand Palace on Saturday and saw the Emerald Buddha (a travel guide's must see) which was smaller and a little more blue than I was expecting. The rest of the sacred buildings were very ornate with golds and colorful mosaics adorning the statues and columns.

We then visited the biggest market I have ever seen. I had to practice a lot of restraint as there were loads of clothing, shoes, linens, jewelry, hats, sunglasses, belt buckles, backpacks, wallets, incense burners, puppets...you name it, they sold it.

I returned to Phnom Penh, Cambodia on Sunday--where I plan on staying for the majority of my time in Southeast Asia. I fell in love with the city during my first two weeks, and there's also the most basic reason--there are jobs here. I already had an interview today and have a couple more lined up this week. Apparently, being young, white, female, and American is really working for me--they prefer these qualities in an English teacher, and they are up front with their discrimination. I interviewed with another girl from my program and a Philipino girl who studied in England and was completely fluent in English--but the other American girl and I would make $10/hour and the Philipino girl only $7/hr, based on her passport origin alone. If I were to stay in Thailand, I would probably have the best shot of getting a job in Bangkok or Pattaya and even then jobs are scarce at this time of year. Anyone interested in visiting Thailand...still consider it! I can travel to any of the nearby countries and we can have a Southeast Asian Adventure!

It feels good to be back in Cambodia. Tonight there is the party for the latest crew of LanguageCorps students at a local bar who just finished their first day today. I think it will feel odd meet the newcomers and be on the other side...I was in their position just three weeks ago! It feels much longer.

Happy February!

addendum

i forgot to mention one of my favorite details in the Pattaya Post. At the movie theatre, right between the previews/turn-off your cell phone messages and the actual movie, there was about a two minute tribute to the King of Thailand. Everyone in the theatre stood for the entirety as we saw a slideshow of his life and work with an emotional soundtrack.

just an interesting little nugget

Pattaya Post

I finished my 3rd day of practice teaching in Pattaya, Thailand today. I am at a kindergarten (glorified daycare) everyday teaching about 2 hours of English a day for these next two weeks. My teachers observe and give me feedback, and then in the afternoons I learn how to speak Thai. or attempt to speak thai. Teaching at the kindergarten became a lot more tolerable once I set my expectations more realistically. We do the alphabet, numbers, and colors...lots of songs and games and all before naptime.

Everyday brings something completely new and unexpected. Yesterday Susan and I took a Baht Bus (pick-up truck with a roof...kindof. 10 baht to go along the route) to the biggest and most extravagant mall I have ever set foot in. The shock was intensified because this was the first taste of civilization for a few weeks and it was this gargantuan display of wealth. It was mostly tourists walking around and shopping. And tons of older white dudes with a young Thai girl on their arm...an ALL too common sight, especially for Pattaya. We gawked around for awhile and saw a movie on the 5th floor--The Road. I guess neither of us really knew the plot ahead of time, and we left feeling pretty down. I'll use that to blame our consumption of pistachio gelato and Pizza Hut--mmm comfort food.

It's a little ridiculous how accustomed I have become to living out of a suitcase, showering whenever our water works, walking without shoes, bowing to thank, eating with a spoon-pushing with a fork, and beckoning or hailing a ride with a down-turned palm (up-turned palm with finger wagging is reserved for dogs..). I haven't even been here that long but sometimes throughout my day I will realized how I've slipped into adaptation to the South East Asian culture. Susan and I have been keeping each other sane and laughing at certain oddities or discomforts that could send some people packing. It's all part of the experience, and I'm trying to take it all in.

Paradise Found

Long time no see!

I meant to post earlier but I had wanted to upload some photos and video first. Turns ouy, electronics aren't my friend this week. So here's a post all by itself with a glimmer of hope that one day soon I will be able to show you in addition to tell you of my travels. We arrived yesterday to Koh Chang, the second biggest island in Thailand. But I get ahead of myself.

Last weekend LanguageCorps took us on a trip to Siem Reap, where there are a lot of temples including the famous Angkor Wat. It was an incredible visit. The bus ride gave me views of Cambodia's countryside, and I felt as though every scene we passed could have made it into the pages of National Geographic. Some of the houses we passed were just one large room made on stilts that looked as if it were surprised to still be standing. There were men asleep on hammocks, half-naked children running about and playing, and gaunt cows roaming the streets that made our bus stop more than once. Along with us we had our teacher Sophia, and her mother-who didn't speak a word of English although we had many conversations. She was very caring and had a young spirit about her and she held my hand as we crossed the (admittedly and potentially dangerous) streets. This trip brought the group a bit closer together.

But now, for the good stuff. We arrived to Koh Chang yesterday after 2 bus rides and a ferry. Just as the ferry pulled in, the sun was setting ovet what honestly looks liked where they filmed L O S T. We had a wonderful dinner on the beach-pad thai with seafood and a coconut shake. I spent all day on the beach today and the water was incredible. I've never seen an ocean so calm and so clear. As I drank my pineapple smoothie on th beach, I realized how hard my life is. Hah! This is an unbelievable place. Susan and I hopped ina glorious pool to a resort (not ours) before we came back to the hotel and our group has plans to meet up so we can see the sunset and have dinner. Tomorrow Rick (head of LanguageCorps) will take us to a waterfall and feed us what he claims is the best chicken in the world. I'm sending lots of warm thoughts back to you!!!

The King and I

When I woke up today, I didn't have expectations of having a remarkable day. Why would I? It seemed as though today would be business as usual; attending class at Pannasastra University, listening to lectures from my LanguageCorps teachers, and practicing their teaching methodology by performing and presenting in front of my peers. After classes, a few of the girls Susan and I have befriended went out with us for a drink. As we were sitting on the second story patio with our 4,000 riel ($1) beers, suddenly all of the staff rushed to the ledge to look out onto the street. We tried to understand what they were looking at, but the usually crowded street was empty. "The King,"said a waiter. "Here come the King." We all stood up and peered over into the street. The King of Cambodia? The most revered and respected man in the country, whose image is held in the highest regard and even ripping or stepping on a money bill with his face on it could get you time in jail? A caravan of police cars with their lights on filed past and then an SUV passed by with a bald man hanging out of the back seat window, smiling and waving. We took a clue from everyone around and on the street to clap and wave and smile back at the King of Cambodia as he drove through the city of Phnom Penh.

Pretty cool, eh?

The rest of my week has paled importance in comparison, but it has mainly included venturing out into the city and along the river. Eating out and going for drinks opened the door for exploring the city, but last night Susan and another girl Eileen and I went around on foot. Walking through the city gave a better perspective of the area geographically and a closer look at how people live and spend their time. There is a big sort of park area that attracts a lot of people that during the day, boys can be found kicking around a shuttlecock (think badminton..but with your feet), monks walking with their orange robes and yellow umbrellas, and a motley crew doing organized aerobics. At night, we found out that it attracts a big crowd of young people who blast techno and hit music and do this massive synchronized dancing.

Tomorrow we have an exam in the morning and then we are off to Angkor Wat for a weekend trip to Siem Riep. I will post pictures and video soon, as promised!

v.